Molto Bene, Y’all

What happens when you grow Italian grapes in Texas? Un bel vino. A beautiful wine. The more I am learning about Texas wine, the more I am convinced that growing Mediterranean varietals are the way to go. Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Mouvedre all thrive in this climate and the vintners that have figured this out are doing beautiful things.

Photo courtesy of Duchman Winery

After our visit to Salt Lick Cellars a couple of weeks ago, we decided to also visit Duchman Family Winery while we were in the vicinity. I had tried some of their wines in previous years, but I had been reading a lot about their Vermentino and the multiple accolades it was receiving. Pear dominated the nose. Crisp and green in the front, the citrus and pear create a long, and clean finish. I was getting something floral but couldn’t determine specifically. They describe it as “white flowers.” Perfect. No surprise it has been so well received. The Trebbiano had a sweeter nose, tropical fruits and citrus, and less of a finish. My favorite white was, no surprise, the Viognier. A bit more acidic than some, the fruit was alive. Bright and balanced with a lot of stone fruits: apricot, peach, and some citrus to make it dance. Super yummy. I brought home one bottle, but should have gotten more. Fortunately, it can be easily found in the area. We then tasted the Sangiovese. I love the bright red fruit of this wine. Light on tannins, and easy on the palate. The Dolcetto had more of the black fruits, a bit richer than the Sangiovese, but still medium bodied. We brought home one of each.

Since we were suffering from the BBQ hangover, I made a vegetarian Antipasto for dinner. Grilled and fresh veggies, olives and cherry peppers, and a couple of cheeses. The Sangiovese complemented it perfectly. I enjoyed the wine at the winery but, by the end of the bottle, I adored the wine. As it opened, what was bright and more acidic became round and luscious. If we’d had more, we would have opened it. Instead we dove into the Dolcetto. My Father-in-Law from Sonoma has always been skeptical of Texas wines. Duchman made him a believer.

I have spoken about how your host at a winery can make or break the experience. In full disclosure, on my previous visit to Duchman, the men helping us didn’t seem to interested in helping. It soured the experience. As much as I had enjoyed the wine, I didn’t enjoy the visit. This time, the people could not have been nicer. Jordan was friendly and knowledgeable. The women in the office were great with my children. I can see that we will be going out to Driftwood more frequently. The wines are delicious, the prices are more than reasonable, and the facility is lovely. What more could you ask for? Grazie, Duchman Family.

Salt Lick Cellars-No Need to BYOB

There was a time, in the not so distant past, when you had to bring a stocked cooler to indulge in an adult beverage while indulging on BBQ at The Salt Lick.  Not anymore.  If you haven’t been to Driftwood recently, you may not be aware that they have entered the wine world.

In 2006, Scott Roberts planted the first vines and bottled the first wines in 2008.  After an in-depth study of climatic challenges, Winemaker Jay Knepp and Roberts chose the thick-skinned grapes that can handle the Texas heat and calciferous soil.  They planted Mediterranean varietals: Tempranillo, Syrah, Granache, and Mourvedre.   The grapes are hand-picked and they use Old World wine-making techniques.  Today, Salt Lick Cellars works with other growers and bottlers in Texas to provide a larger variety of wines for their guests.

They offer five blends, four single varietals, and a Sparkling.  The BBQ White is a Vermentino.  Light, crisp and easy sipping.  The Ranch Road White is a blend of Muscat Canelli, Chenin Blanc, Semillion, and Viognier.  Crisp citrus, soft peach or melon, and some sweet floral notes.  I enjoyed the blend very much. Either would be a perfect foil to the Texas heat.  The BBQ Red is Primitivo, the Italian equivalent of Zinfandel.  Tart red fruit with medium body, it is a great match for the peppery spice in the BBQ.

The Mourvedre is 100% Estate grown.  A beautiful claret red.  I got a lot of Bing cherry, some earth, but still a lighter wine.  My favorite was the Tempranillo.  It had a fresh herbal nose.  Big smooth fruit and a long finish.  I picked up some nutmeg or some other spiciness.  Unfiltered and aged in both American and French oak, this one was super tasty. I took one home with me.  I found both of these varietals to be lighter than some I have had, but no less delicious.  The brightness of the fruit was not overpowered by the tannins.  I am curious to see how both of these wines develop as the vines age.

Since my family was waiting for me, I had to keep it brief.  There were several wines that I did not have time to taste, and couldn’t really give the samples the time they deserved.  I plan to remedy that in the near future.  In addition to their own wines, the tasting room carries other Texas wines, beers, chocolates, nuts, cheeses, and gifts.  I made the mistake of eating first, so my palate had already been through the ringer before I tasted the wines.  Not recommended.   Taste first and pick up a bottle to go with your BBQ.  Or a few bottles to take home.  As if the brisket alone wasn’t enough reason to head to Driftwood, the Roberts Family has just given you several more reasons.  Cheers, y’all.